Hyldest til Rom

 MIH 1997

Vi starter vores Odyssé til Rom i den danske sommerhede 28.august 1997 med linie 9 til Kastrup Lufthavn. Nogle timer senere, stiger vi ud i noget der kunne minde om en flammekaster. Der var varmt i Danmark, javel! Her er der virkelig hedt.

Ostia Antica.

Dette er en af de ting der skal “overstås”, - et mål, og den slags bør man få fyret af med det samme, - så er der bagefter tid til at nyde Rom i slentretempo.
Ostia Antica er væsentlig bedre bevaret end Forum Romanum, med en hovedvej i hele byens længde, hvor der er tydelige slidspor fra vognene i de sorte tufsten.

Velbevarede mosaikgulve, der tydeligt fortæller, hvad husene har været brugt til.

Et velbevaret amfiteater, der stadig er i brug.

Den smukke antikskrift, som romerne stadig bruger til deres gadeskilte.

Det hele ånder af bibelsk skønhed.

Ostia Antica var Roms forbindelse til handelslivet udenfor. Den blev af gode grunde anlagt de 25 km. udenfor Rom fordi handelsflåderne ofte var for store, til at kunne tilbagelægge ruten ad Tiberen, id til selve Rom.

En anden by, som også er seværdig, men af nyere dato, er E.U.R.
Mussolini havde en drøm om noget der kunne minde om et Forum Romanum II. Det blev ikke helt som han havde regnet med, men i hvert fald står byen der med store pompøse bygninger, inspireret af arkitekturen fra antikkens tid.

I denne strengt arkitektoniske bygning, har Museo della Civilta Romano til huse, skænket af FIAT.

Her finder man rariteter fra antikkens tid, og rekonstruktioner af romersk ingeniørarbejde.

Visse “kig” minder om amerikanske advokat-krimier.

Den grafiske korrekthed, inspirerer til at blive brudt, - her af nogle franske balletdansere.

Masser af spændende fotografiske vinkler, akkurat som i Paris´ Défense.

Brede skyggefulde boulevarder.

Rom’s vand.

En anden ting der lige skal overstås, er Trevi Fontænen. Den er klemt inde mellem fire husblokke, og japanerne står på ryggen af hinanden , for at fotografere manden, konen eller tanten der kyler penge over højre skulder. Så kommer man nemlig til Rom igen, siges der. Utroligt så overtroiske folk er. Men for en sikkerheds skyld må jeg hellere ofre nogle mønter, og blive foreviget i det historisske øjeblik.

Men Rom’s vand er mere end Trevi Fontænen. Akvædukterne var en af antikkens fremragende ingeniørarbejder, og systemet benyttes den dag i dag. Resultatet er rent drikkevand, der kommer direkte fra bjergene, som man med sindsro kan drikke, og på hver et torv, plads og gadehjørne plasker større eller mindre fontæner og springvand. Mange af fontænerne er hele små kunstvværker. Hvorfor ikke bruge fantasien, i stedet for bare at sætte en kedelig vandhane op?

Pantheon og kvarteret omkring

Pantheon var oprindelig et tempel, bygget år 27 f.v.t. Det åbne hul i kuplen måler 9 meter i diameter, og var ment som et bindeled mellem templet og guderne i himlen.
Oprindelig førte en trappe OP til templet, - i dag skråner pladsen ned mod indgangen. Det siger lidt om datidens gadeniveau, og hvad er er sket i mellemtiden.

Kvarteret omkring Pantheon er et virvar af smalle gyder, - vicoloer - , det er sådanne steder det er spændende at gå på opdagelse, og være en time om at runde et hushjørne. Og man kan sige, at det er ærgerligt, at så få opdager sådanne steder, og på den anden side, - heldigvis. De fleste turister får i en fart set Pantheon og Trevi Fontænen, hvorefter de styrter afsted til den næste seværdighed.

Kvateret er fyldt med små butikker og restauranter, bl.a. flere bogbindere, hvor man kunne få håndindbundne lommebøger og notesbøger.

Via Pié de Marmo, hedder en gade. Marmorfodens gade. Fordi, her fandt man i 1500-tallet en stor marmorfod fra en statue, som nu er blokket op på en sokkel, til minde om da man byggede ovenpå de gamle fundamenter fra antikkens tid.

Her kan man også blive ekviperet fra inderst til yderst som nonne, munk , kordreng eller præst med diverse reservedele.

Piazza Navona skulle ifølge turistguiden, høre til en af Rom´s smukkeste pladser. Ja, hvis man fjerner souvenirboder og andet optrækkeri. Jeg synes der er hundredevis af væsentlig smukkere og mindre ovverrendte pladser.

Piazza Minerva med den lille venlige elefant der bærer en af Rom´s utallige obelisker. De fleste for øvrigt tyvstjålet.

Piazza Borghese´s lille bogmarked hvor man sagtens kan finde interessante og sjældne ting.

I dette kvarter bliver Peterskirken, Colosseum etc. om end ikke ligegyldige, mennår man først er her, kan det andet altid vente til en anden gang. Det er ligesom ikke så vigtigt.

Alt er et orgie i brændt sienna.

Jødeghettoen.

Ordet “ghetto” stammer fra venetiansk, der egentlig betyder smedie eller jernstøberi, - på dansk “gjethus”. I Venedig skete den første internering af jøder i 1516, hvor de skulle holde sig indenfor ghettoen, som var i et støberi, på bestemte tidspunkter. Deraf er ordet “ghetto” opstået, og bruges nu i flæng om alt og alle der lever koncentreret et sted.

I Rom´s jødeghetto oplever man det totale uspolerede folkeliv. Her sætter konerne sig ned i de smalle sommerhede gyder, følger livet, og lader tingene ske.
Stedet er totalt blottet for turistgejl.

Her finder man forretninger, som vi husker det fra 50’ernes Danmark.

Jeg nåede at tage et billede af barberen, inden han skarpt markerede, at han ikke ønskede at blive foreviget. Det afholdt mig fra at tage flere billeder af personer. Måske har de været ofre for rigelig bevågenhed?

Synagogen, som for øvrigt var bevogtet af skarpladt carabineri.

På det lille torv står den lidt ejendommelige Skildpaddefontæne.

Tiberøen

Her er absolut intet at se, men i 30 grader og motorlarm var det en sand lise at side på den skyggefulde mole med vildtvoksende figentræer, og fortære et interimistisk måltid bestående af tomater, brød og mayonnaise.

Det eneste der egentlig ligger på denne ø er et hospital omgivet af palmer og andre eksotiske træer.

Der fiskes.

Vandet iltes ved en slags kunstigt vandfald.

Et enormt gravearbejde var i gang, - Roms guder må vide til hvilket formål. Måske et nyt arkæologisk fund.?

Floraen

Floraen

Romerne har sans for skønhed. Alt hvad der kan blomstre og gro, og tage sig godt ud, bliver udnyttet.

Kig op! Næsten alle huse har taghaver med et væld af blomster.

Mimoseart som almindelig vejbeplantning.

Magnolia Grandiflora, også som vejbeplantning.

Figentræer er almindelige vildtvoksende træer langs skråningerne ved Tiberøen.

Dadelpalmer.

Citrusart.

Picnic i Villa Borghese

Der kommer et tidspunkt i enhver turist’s liv; - man har fået nok af indtryk, man er ved at få kuller af at iagttage og opleve, og fødderne er som to marmorklodser fra Forum Romanum.
Man skal unde sig selv en pause, man kan ikke nå alt i Rom alligevel, og gør det for øvrigt aldrig, - Rom bliver man aldrig færdig med, det er sikert!
man skal unde sig selv en “fridag”, og tage på skovtur i Villa Borghese.
Man går på markedet og køber ind af de fristende friske grøntsager. Udstyret med mozarellaost, tunfisk, rughettasalat, oliven og landbrød, begiver vi os op ad Via Sistina, passerer Den spanske Trappe, og går mod Monte Pincio med Villa Medici’s bugnende have væltende udover vejen.
Og så - SLUT! Til højre ind ad en sti, for at ende under Villa Borghese’s skyggefulde pinjer med skræppende fårekyllinger.

Hvis nogle har undret sig over, hvorfor det italienske flag har de farver det har, så er svaret på spørgsmålet illustreret her.

Mad og drikke

Romerne kan lave espresso så tyk og koncentreret, så en mundfuld er rigeligt.

Men man skal indtage den på en lille sidegadesnask, hvor en kop koster få kroner, - det er som regel også her hvor den smager bedst, og hvor man ikke er nærig med bønnerne.

Sætter man sig på en overrendt café i et turistområde, kan man være bombesikker på at få noget tyndt pjask, og en kande vand til at skylle den dårlige smag ned med bagefter.

Hvorfor har det italienske flag de farver det har?

En anden stor fornøjelse, som ikke er nævnt i turistføreren, er, at købe ind på markedet med lokalbefolkningen, og dække op til fest på hotelværelset med de forhåndenværende midler.

Italienerne er så absolut nr.1 på min Top 10 liste, hvad angår mad. Al t bliver så lækkert serveret uden særlige dikkedarer.

Trastevere

Idyllisk ved første øjekast. Ved nærmere øjesyn står der Spies og Tjæreborg på alle dørene til de små spisesteder.

Om det så er vasketøjet, har man mistanke om, at turistforeningen stiller krav til korrekt ophængning.

Jeg vil kraftigt fraråde, at man overhovedet indtager så meget som et glas vand her. Tjenerne er sure, det koster kassen og det er noget elendigt sprøjt man får serveret.

Denne espresso smagte under alle omstændigheder som pulverkaffe, der havde fået et skud natron så den skummede.

Men et af mine bedste billeder blev taget her.

TIL MAD OG DRIKKE
TIL MAD OG DRIKKE
Det er lige omvendt i Rom; her får man to cl. kaffe, men 6 cl. grappa.
SLUT TIL MAD OG DRIKKE

Trastevere forts.
Katten holder siesta.

man kan sige, at Trastevere, er Roms Place du Tertre.

TRAFIK

Med en danskers øjne, er den romerske trafik hektisk, men faktisk glider den uden problemer, fordi man ikke bruger tid på at provokere og give fingeren som vi kender det fra hjemme. Det er ikke usædvanligt, at en bil stopper midt i et fodgængerfelt. I Danmark ville der ikke have været meget bil tilbage, her tager man det ganske roligt, og man forstår at sno sig som fodgænger. Man skal markere at man vil over gaden ved at træde et par skridt ud , så holder bilerne. Men en lad være med at praktisere det herhjemme, det kommer der kun ballade ud af.

Scootere bruges af alle; forretningsmænd, smarte piger i hat og lårkort. Man har for længst indset, at det er den hurtigste måde at komme frem på.

Rom har et storartet busnet, og der er den forskel fra HT, at her kommer man frem. Der går ikke unødig tid med at kontrollere billetter
og kort, - det er passagerernes eget ansvar. Man stiger op foran og bagved, og stiger ud i midten. Hurtig ekspedition.

Og så er trehjulede biler pladsbesparende.

obs til frokost i Borghese

Udsigt over Den spanske Trappe
slut borghese

ROMERNE

Der snakkes

Diskuteres

Bladhandleren får sig en lur.

Koncert under åben himmel i den hede romernat i Marcellus gamle teater.

Skilte og detaljer

Der er ingen grimme skilte i Rom, - alt er håndlavet. Min fornemmelse er, at der vanker bøde hvis man smækker et grimt isenkræmmeskilt op over sin facade.

Man bruger de proffessionelle skiltemalere, - selv til midlertidige skilte.

Gadeskiltene er bogstaver hugget ud i marmor.

Vores egen Thorvaldsen har sin egen plads. Mærkelig nok ingen for H.C.Andersen.

Og det jeg synes der er vigtigt ved enhver rejse, det er, at få alle detaljerne med. Her er nogle indfangne af slagsen, som man ellers er tilbøjelig til at overse.

Husene

Huset overfor hotellet virkede meget tilskoddet. Men endelig en aften, blev en af skodderne åbnet, og vi kunne se der boede nogen i huset.

Trajanersøjle med tegneserie i spiralform, hele vejen op.
En gademaler. Billedet blev måske ikke solgt, men han tog penge for at blive fotograferet.

husene forts.

Museet for moderne kunst nord for Villa Borghese.

Afskedens time

Vi glædede os til at komme hjem, og alligevel ville vi godt være blevet en uge til.
Mit sædvanlige mareridt nærmede sig, der bestod i, hvordan jeg skulle kunne have alle de ting jeg havde købt i kufferten, og især hvordan de skulle pakkes.
Der var købt Grappa, chokolade, tomatfrø, parmesanost, kaffebønner, romersk kogebog, akvarelblokke, - verdens bedste, og en håndindbundet skrivebog.

Vi mindes og husker husene i den brændte sienna, solen, varmen, maden, vinen, de rare romere …………………..

All Rights Reserved MIH 1997

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Tribute to Rome

MIH 1997

We start our Odyssey to Rome in the Danish summer heat of 28 August 1997 with line 9 to Kastrup Airport. A few hours later, we step out into something reminiscent of a flamethrower. It was hot in Denmark, yes! It's really hot here.

 

 

Ostia Antica.

 

This is one of the things that must be "overcome" - a goal, and that kind of thing should be fired immediately - then there is time to enjoy Rome at a leisurely pace.

Ostia Antica is significantly better preserved than the Roman Forum, with a main road along the entire length of the city, where there are clear wear marks from the carriages in the black tufts.

 

Well-preserved mosaic floors that clearly tell what the houses have been used for.

 

A well-preserved amphitheater that is still in use.

 

The beautiful antique writing that the Romans still use for their street signs.

 

It all breathes of biblical beauty.

 

Ostia Antica was Rome's connection to trade outside. It was built for good reasons the 25 km. outside Rome because the merchant fleets were often too large to cover the route along the Tiber, id to Rome itself.

 

Another city that is also worth seeing, but of more recent date, is the E.U.R.

Mussolini had a dream of something reminiscent of a Roman Forum II. It did not turn out quite as he had expected, but at least the city stands there with large pompous buildings, inspired by the architecture of antiquity.

 

In this strictly architectural building, the Museo della Civilta Romano is housed, donated by FIAT.

 

Here you will find rarities from ancient times, and reconstructions of Roman engineering.

 

Certain "looks" are reminiscent of American crime novels.

 

The graphic correctness inspires to be broken, - here by some French ballet dancers.

 

Lots of exciting photographic angles, just like in Paris´ Défense.

 

Wide shady boulevards.

 

Rome’s water.

 

Another thing that just needs to be overcome is the Trevi Fountain. It is sandwiched between four blocks of houses, and the Japanese stand on each other's backs, to photograph the man, wife or aunt chilling money over her right shoulder. Then you come to Rome again, it is said. Incredibly how superstitious people are. But for the sake of safety, I'd rather sacrifice some coins, and be immortalized in the historic moment.

 

But Rome's water is more than the Trevi Fountain. The aqueducts were one of the excellent engineering works of antiquity, and the system is used to this day. The result is clean drinking water that comes directly from the mountains, which you can drink with serenity, and on every square, square and street corner splash larger or smaller fountains and fountains. Many of the fountains are whole little works of art. Why not use your imagination, instead of just setting up a boring faucet?

 

Pantheon and the neighborhood around

 

The Pantheon was originally a temple, built in the year 27 B.C. The open hole in the dome measures 9 meters in diameter, and was intended as a link between the temple and the gods in heaven.

Originally, a staircase led UP to the temple, - today the square slopes down towards the entrance. It says a bit about the street level of the time and what has happened in the meantime.

 

The neighborhood around the Pantheon is a jumble of narrow alleys, - vicolos -, these are the places it's exciting to explore, and be an hour to round a house corner. And one can say that it is a pity that so few discover such places, and on the other hand, - fortunately. Most tourists get to see the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain in a hurry, after which they rush off to the next sight.

 

The square is full of small shops and restaurants, including several bookbinders where one could get hand-bound wallets and notebooks.

 

Via Pié de Marmo, is called a street. Marble foot street. Because, here in the 16th century, a large marble base was found from a statue, which is now blocked up on a plinth, in memory of when they built on top of the old foundations from ancient times.

 

Here you can also be equipped from the inside to the outside as a nun, monk, choir boy or priest with various spare parts.

 

According to the tourist guide, Piazza Navona should be one of Rome's most beautiful squares. Yes, if one removes souvenir stalls and other upholstery. I think there are hundreds of significantly more beautiful and less overrun seats.

 

Piazza Minerva with the little friendly elephant carrying one of Rome's countless obelisks. Most, by the way, stolen.

 

Piazza Borghese´s small book market where you can easily find interesting and rare things.

 

In this neighborhood, St. Peter's Basilica, the Colosseum, etc., although not indifferent, once you are here, the other can always wait for another time. It's just not that important.

 

Everything is an orgy in burnt sienna.

 

The Jewish ghetto.

 

The word "ghetto" comes from Venetian, which actually means smithy or iron foundry - in Danish "gjethus". In Venice, the first internment of Jews took place in 1516, where they had to stay inside the ghetto, which was in a foundry, at certain times. Hence the word “ghetto” has emerged, and is now used interchangeably about everything and everyone who lives concentrated in one place.

 

In Rome's Jewish ghetto, one experiences the total unspoiled people's lives. Here the wives sit down in the narrow summer hot alleys, follow life, and let things happen.

The place is totally devoid of tourist flair.

 

Here you will find shops, as we remember it from 50s Denmark.

 

I managed to take a picture of the barber before sharply pointing out that he did not want to be immortalized. It kept me from taking more pictures of people. Maybe they have been victims of ample attention?

 

The synagogue, which, incidentally, was guarded by sharp-edged carabineri.

 

In the small square stands the slightly peculiar Turtle Fountain.

 

Tiberøen

 

There is absolutely nothing to see here, but in 30 degrees and engine noise it was a real lice to side on the shady pier with wild fig trees, and devour an interim meal consisting of tomatoes, bread and mayonnaise.

 

The only thing really located on this island is a hospital surrounded by palm trees and other exotic trees.

 

There is fishing.

 

The water is oxygenated by a kind of artificial waterfall.

 

An enormous excavation work was underway, - The gods of Rome must know for what purpose. Maybe a new archaeological find.?

 

The flora

 

The flora

 

The Romans have a sense of beauty. Everything that can flourish and grow, and look good, is utilized.

 

Look up! Almost all houses have roof gardens with a wealth of flowers.

 

Mimosa species as common road planting.

 

Magnolia Grandiflora, also as a road plant.

 

Fig trees are common wild-growing trees along the slopes at Tiberøen.

 

Date palms.

 

Citrusart.

 

Picnic at Villa Borghese

 

There comes a time in every tourist’s life; - you have had enough of impressions, you are getting haddock from observing and experiencing, and your feet are like two marble blocks from the Roman Forum.

You have to treat yourself to a break, you can not reach everything in Rome anyway, and by the way never do, - Rome you will never finish, it's for sure!

you have to treat yourself to a "day off", and go on a picnic in Villa Borghese.

You go to the market and buy some of the tempting fresh vegetables. Equipped with mozzarella cheese, tuna, rye lettuce, olives and country bread, we head up Via Sistina, pass the Spanish Steps, and walk towards Monte Pincio with Villa Medici’s bountiful garden tumbling across the road.

And then - END! Right onto a path, to end under Villa Borghese’s shady pines with scurrying chickens.

 

If some have wondered why the Italian flag has the colors it has, then the answer to the question is illustrated here.

 

Food and drinks

 

The Romans can make espresso so thick and concentrated that one mouthful is plentiful.

 

But you have to eat it on a small side street snack, where a cup costs a few kroner - it is usually also here where it tastes best, and where you are not stingy with the beans.

 

If you sit down at an overcrowded café in a tourist area, you can be sure of getting a thin splash, and a jug of water to rinse the bad taste down with afterwards.

 

Why does the Italian flag have the colors it has?

 

Another great pleasure, which is not mentioned in the tour guide, is to shop in the market with the locals, and cover up for the party in the hotel room with the available funds.

 

Italians are so absolutely No. 1 on my Top 10 list when it comes to food. Al t ​​is so deliciously served without any special frills.

 

Trastevere

Idyllic at first glance. On closer inspection, Spies and Tjæreborg are on all the doors to the small restaurants.

 

If it is the laundry, it is suspected that the tourist association demands proper hanging.

 

I would strongly advise against consuming as much as a glass of water here at all. The waiters are sour, it costs the box and it's a lousy splash you get served.

 

In any case, this espresso tasted like instant coffee that had been given a shot of baking soda so it frothed.

 

But one of my best photos was taken here.

 

FOR FOOD AND DRINK

FOR FOOD AND DRINK

It is just the opposite in Rome; here you get two cl. coffee, but 6 cl. grappa.

STOP FOOD AND DRINK

 

Trastevere cont.

The cat is holding a siesta.

 

one can say that Trastevere, is Rome's Place du Tertre.

 

TRAFFIC

 

With a Dane's eyes, Roman traffic is hectic, but in fact it slips without problems, because you do not spend time provoking and giving the finger as we know it from home. It is not uncommon for a car to stop in the middle of a pedestrian crossing. In Denmark, there would not have been much car left, here you take it quite calmly, and you know how to turn around as a pedestrian. You have to mark that you want to cross the street by stepping out a few steps, and the cars will stop. But do not practice it at home, it will only cause trouble.

 

Scooters are used by everyone; businessmen, smart girls in hats and thigh shorts. It has long been realized that this is the fastest way to get there.

 

Rome has a magnificent bus network, and there is the difference from HT that you get here. There is no unnecessary time to check tickets

and in short, - it is the passengers' own responsibility. You ascend in front and behind, and ascend in the middle. Fast expedition.

 

And then tricycles are space-saving.

 

note for breakfast in Borghese

 

View of the Spanish Steps

slut borghese

 

THE ROMANS

 

There is talk

 

Discussed

 

The leaf dealer gets a nap.

 

Open-air concert in the hot Roman night in Marcellus' old theater.

 

Signs and details

 

There are no ugly signs in Rome - everything is handmade. My feeling is that there is a fine if you slam an ugly hardware store sign up over your facade.

 

You use the professional sign painters, - even for temporary signs.

 

The street signs are letters carved in marble.

 

Our own Thorvaldsen has its own place. Strangely enough none for H.C. Andersen.

 

And what I think is important about any trip, is to get all the details. Here are some captives of the kind that one otherwise tends to overlook.

 

The houses

 

The house opposite the hotel seemed very shabby. But finally one evening, one of the shutters was opened and we could see someone living in the house.

 

Trajan column with cartoon in spiral shape, all the way up.

 

A street painter. The picture may not have been sold, but he took money to be photographed.

 

the houses cont.

 

The Museum of Modern Art north of Villa Borghese.

 

Farewell hour

 

We were looking forward to coming home, and yet we would have stayed another week.

My usual nightmare approached, which consisted of how I should be able to have all the things I had bought in the suitcase, and especially how they should be packed.

Grappa, chocolate, tomato seeds, parmesan cheese, coffee beans, Roman cookbook, watercolor blocks - the best in the world, and a hand-bound exercise book were bought.

 

We remember and remember the houses in the burnt sienna, the sun, the heat, the food, the wine, the nice Romans.

All Rights Reserved MIH 1997